Hyperpigmentation – treatment and prevention

Hyperpigmentation is a common skin condition and one of the most difficult challenges in skin care. It can appear on all skin types, and as we age it becomes more visible. This problem is particularly well-known in Korea, which is why Korean beauty products offer many products designed to treat hyperpigmentation. In this article we will talk about what hyperpigmentation is, why it occurs, how to prevent it and how to treat it. ✨ At the end, we also share our product recommendations for different skin types. ❤️

What is hyperpigmentation?

Hyperpigmentation refers to various pigment disorders on the skin. It occurs in various forms, such as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), melasma and age spots that occur over time. Hyperpigmentation can affect all skin tones, from light to dark, so this problem truly affects everyone!

Why does hyperpigmentation occur?

Our skin contains melanin, the pigment responsible for skin color, and it is produced by special cells called melanocytes in the epidermis. These melanocytes can become overactive when triggered by factors such as inflammation (such as acne), hormones and UV radiation. When this happens, an enzyme called tyrosinase begins to overproduce pigment in melanosomes, which are then transferred to the surface of the skin and appear as dark spots or areas. Clear enough?

Genes also play a role – certain people and ethnic groups have a stronger tendency to develop hyperpigmentation. Studies have shown that hyperpigmentation is especially challenging for individuals with darker skin types. Pregnancy and certain hormonal medications can also trigger hyperpigmentation, especially melasma.

Prevention: The key to healthy skin

The best way to keep your skin healthy is to focus on prevention. ❤️ Especially when it comes to hyperpigmentation, which is one of the most stubborn skin problems that takes time – and in some cases money – to treat. So let's start with the basics!

We cannot control our genes, but we can take preventive measures to avoid hyperpigmentation: by using sunscreen. UV radiation is one of the most common causes of hyperpigmentation, so sun protection is absolutely essential – regardless of skin tone!

So tip number 1 is: use sunscreen. 🌞

It is also good to minimize activities that can cause inflammation. These include squeezing pimples, excessive picking at the skin, and rough handling (such as using purse-stringing tools, etc. at home), which can lead to skin inflammation.

Treatment: Several ways to smooth the skin

Treating hyperpigmentation can be done from several directions: prevention, reducing melanin production and promoting skin renewal. We covered prevention in the previous section, so now we'll move on to the other two methods.
There are many ingredients that have been researched and proven to help with hyperpigmentation. In Korea, products with these ingredients are often labeled as "brightening" or even "whitening," but their main purpose is to even out skin tone and treat hyperpigmentation. Some of the most researched ingredients that inhibit the action of tyrosinase (the enzyme we mentioned earlier) include:

• Ascorbic acid (classic vitamin C)
• Other vitamin C derivatives, although they have not been studied as thoroughly as pure ascorbic acid
• Hydroquinone (not allowed in the EU)
• Alpha Arbutin (a safer version of hydroquinone)
• Glabridin, found in licorice root
• Azelainsyra
• Niacinamide in high concentrations (<5%)
• Ris

Another way to attack hyperpigmentation is to promote skin renewal – chemical exfoliation and retinoids can help with this. These treatments alone may not be enough to fully treat hyperpigmentation, but they can be quite effective, especially retinoids that work deeper into the skin.

The best results are often achieved by combining all of these methods: prevention, tyrosinase inhibitors and promoting skin renewal.

Example of skin care routine for skin with a tendency to hyperpigmentation:

• Gentle facial cleansing: For example, Hwarang Bellflower Cleansing Balm or Ongredient's gentle exfoliating and soothing gel cleanser.
• Toner/Essence: For dry skin, try Anua's toner with rice and ceramides; for oily skin, About Me vitamin C toner pads.
• Serum: In the morning, use Cosrx's serum with 23% pure vitamin C or Axis-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum with 5% niacinamide. In the evening, try a retinol and licorice root serum, such as Some By Mi Retinol Intense.
• Sun Protection: A soothing sun protection that SKIN1004 Tea-Trica Sun Milk SPF 50.
• Moisturizer: Replace sunscreen in the evening with a soothing moisturizer, such as Purito Wonder Releaf Cream Unscented.

(If your skin is very sensitive, using Beauty of Joseon’s Rice + Alpha Arbutin serum in the morning and their Ginseng + Retinal serum in the evening can be a good option, as both are gentle enough for the eye area and the entire face.)

Remember that treating hyperpigmentation takes time

Remember that treating hyperpigmentation takes time, so be patient and let the skin have the time it needs. ❤️ The skin undergoes a complete renewal cycle approximately every 2 months, so it is important to give it at least 2 months before expecting visible results.

(In very severe cases, when the hyperpigmentation is particularly intense, it is possible to seek medical help and get prescription medication for the condition. Laser treatments performed in clinics are also an effective option for treating hyperpigmentation.)

References:
Dr. Wong, M. The Science of Beauty. 6/2024. Sidor 115-116. "How can I treat dark spots and uneven pigment?" Hämtad 6 november 2024.
Dr. Yoo, J. Differential diagnosis and management of hyperpigmentation, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, Volume 47, Issue 2, 1 februari 2022, sidor 251–258. Hämtad 6 november 2024. https://doi.org/10.1111/ced.14747