Skin exfoliation 101 – best tips for glowing skin ✨ – Yeppo&Soonsoo Sweden

For many, exfoliating the skin and different exfoliating products are familiar, but it can be difficult to know which type of peeling product is best for oneself. There are mechanical peels, chemical, enzymatic peels... Now we dive into the world of exfoliating products and explain the differences between various products and how they should be used. We also tell you which exfoliating products are the best choice for your skin type.

Benefits of exfoliation

Exfoliation is beneficial for most skin types, even dry skin! So exfoliation does not need to be limited only to oily skin types. There are also many options that can suit even sensitive skin and help it get even more out of its own skincare routine.

🌰 Benefits of exfoliation in brief:

Removes excess dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin as well as dirt and sebum accumulated on the skin
Cleans pores and makes them look smaller
Clearer and more even skin tone
Improves skin texture and makes it softer
Helps active ingredients absorb better into the skin

Exfoliation has many benefits! But does that mean you should exfoliate your skin as often as possible to reveal new, radiant skin? Absolutely not – it is best to exfoliate thoughtfully, for example once a week is enough for many. Excessive exfoliation can weaken the skin barrier, irritate the skin, and even worsen inflammations.

Our skin sheds dead skin cells from the surface about every 28 days. Healthy skin exfoliates itself naturally. But sometimes we need a little extra help. Several factors affect the skin's natural renewal, such as dry and cold air, heating and air conditioning, various illnesses, and stress. Regular, gentle exfoliation can support the skin's well-being and contribute to more radiance and a more even skin tone.

Who is exfoliation suitable for?

You especially benefit from exfoliation if your skin is dull, often has impurities, you have blackheads and your skin shines, or if other skincare products do not seem to absorb well into your skin. Then you can try if peeling products can improve the situation!

When we are young, our skin can effectively take care of removing dead skin cells on its own, without external help. As we age, the skin's ability to get rid of dead skin cells on its own deteriorates and may need help from exfoliating products. Therefore, for example, children and teenagers do not need exfoliation, and we do not recommend exfoliating products for young people. If a young person or a child, for example, has problems with impurities or acne, we recommend consulting a knowledgeable dermatologist.

Exfoliation can be beneficial for dry, oily, sensitive, and aging skin! There is surely a suitable product for everyone, and next we will go through different peeling products and ingredients that you have probably heard of.

Peeling products and their differences

There are basically three different ways to exfoliate the skin: chemical, mechanical, and enzymatic.

Chemical peeling products are essentially milder for the skin when used correctly. As the name suggests, chemical peeling removes dead skin cells chemically, for example with the help of AHA or BHA acids.

AHA or alpha hydroxy acid:

Is an overall group of chemical exfoliating ingredients that include lactic acid, mandelic acid, and glycolic acid. Their concentration varies between 2-20% and they work best on the skin's surface by softening the skin and improving skin texture and tone. With alpha hydroxy acids, it is very important to use sunscreen because they make the skin more sensitive to UV radiation from the sun ☀️

BHA or beta hydroxy acid:

better known as salicylic acid, is an oil-soluble acid particularly suitable for treating blemishes and blackheads. Compared to most AHA products, salicylic acid can be absorbed better into the skin and therefore works effectively on impurities deep in the skin. The concentration of salicylic acid varies between 0.5-2%.

PHA or polyhydroxy acid:

Is a newer hydroxy acid, the most well-known being gluconolactone. PHA is considered milder than other chemical exfoliating ingredients and, like some AHA acids, PHA is also moisturizing for the skin. It has also not been shown to make the skin more sensitive to sunlight.

LHA or lipohydroxy acid:

A milder form of salicylic acid, LHA is very similar to salicylic acid but a gentler option for sensitive skin. Like salicylic acid, LHA is oil-soluble and is therefore a good choice for oily skin to balance sebum production.

Physical or mechanical peeling is performed either with a brush, sponge, or a product containing particles (e.g., a formula with grains) that mechanically exfoliates the skin. Mechanical peeling can often be harsh on the skin because the strength of the peel varies from person to person and its effect is harder to control. We generally do not recommend brushes intended for exfoliation, at least not for the face, because the bristles usually are not replaced often enough, which causes bacteria to accumulate on the brush and be transferred back to the skin with each use. Mechanical peeling is a good choice for less sensitive skin and for those who want to feel that the skincare really works. For those who like mechanical peeling, we recommend gels that exfoliate mechanically without irritating the skin, such as Anua Heartleaf LHA Moisture Peeling Gel.

Enzymatic peeling is somewhat similar to chemical peeling but is often the mildest of these options. We especially recommend enzymatic peeling for sensitive skin. Enzymatic peels often use enzymes from nature, such as papaya enzyme, which gently break down dead skin cells and facilitate the skin's exfoliation. If you want to try enzymatic peeling, try for example Eqqualberry's enzyme-based brightening toner.

How often should the skin be exfoliated?

How often the skin should be exfoliated depends entirely on the skin's individual needs and strength. When it comes to exfoliation, it's good to remember the principle: less is more

Dry skin

Dry skin should be exfoliated, but moderately and with a sufficiently mild product. Once a week may be enough for dry skin.
Chemical peels that both hydrate and exfoliate the skin are best for dry skin. Look for products with PHA or AHA, especially lactic or mandelic acid.
Product recommendation for dry skin: Medicube Zero Pore Pad Mild

Combination skin

Combination skin usually tends to be more prone to either dryness or oiliness, so choose a peeling product based on the skin's main condition.
The frequency of exfoliation depends on your skin, but we recommend starting with 1-2 times per week or as needed.
Product recommendation for combination skin: SKIN1004 Hyalu-Cica Brightening Toner

Oily skin

Exfoliation is very important for oily skin to prevent excessive sebum production from clogging pores.
Stronger chemical peels suit oily skin, and mechanical peeling can also be a good option for some.
However, avoid overly strong peeling products if your skin tone is dark or if you easily get pigmentation spots after pimples. This may indicate that the product you are using is too strong for your skin or that the ingredient does not suit you. Too strong exfoliation can cause hyperpigmentation or hypopigmentation, especially for darker skin tones.
For some with oily skin, daily exfoliation with AHA or BHA acids may be suitable, but only by testing will you find the best method and amount for your skin. Generally, oily skin should be exfoliated 2-3 times a week.
Product recommendation for oily skin: Beauty of Joseon Green Plum Refreshing Toner: AHA + BHA

Uneven skin tone

If pigmentation issues are a particular concern, exfoliation can help, but it requires caution.
Choose a product that contains AHA as well as a skin-brightening ingredient, such as niacinamide or antioxidants.
Product recommendation for uneven skin tone: Celimax Pore + Dark Spot Brightening Pad

Sensitive skin

For sensitive skin, it is best to choose a mild chemical peel. How often it should be used depends entirely on the skin's reactivity and tolerance to exfoliation. So it is not necessary to exfoliate every week, but only as needed, for example once or twice a month.
Product recommendation for sensitive skin: Axis-Y PHA Resurfacing Glow Peel

Skincare after exfoliation

When the skin is exfoliated, it can temporarily become a bit more sensitive, so it's good to avoid other strong active ingredients in the same routine, such as retinol. Also remember to properly hydrate the skin after exfoliation. 💦

After exfoliation, add for example moisturizing and soothing toner and ampoule before moisturizer. If you want to enhance the skin's radiance effect, you can try adding a generally well-tolerated ingredient to your routine, such as azelaic acid, which helps even out skin tone and combat impurities.

Remember that exfoliation is not necessary for all skin types, but when used correctly, it can give the skin more radiance and softness. 💜

Sources:

https://labmuffin.com/how-to-exfoliate-2-all-about-chemical-exfoliants/

https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17348998/